My father replaced his after just 3 years, called GE and they sent him a new, top of the line one because he could produce the receipt and paper work and it was within the normal operating period for the tank. To remove the pipe, you’ll need a pair of wire cutters or a hacksaw. Typically, the pipe is glued or soldered to the valve. Because tankless systems typically require the addition of a 220V/240V outlet and/or larger-diameter gas pipes than found in an average home, installation can. 8 l Lead-Free Potable Water Thermal Expansion Tank The 2.1 gallon XT-8 Thermal Expansion Tank The 2.1 gallon XT-8 Thermal Expansion Tank is utilized on potable water lines between the backflow preventer or pressure reducing valve and the water heater for protection against water thermal expansion in residential applications. If your overflow pipe is in good shape, you may be able to fix it yourself. What are a few brands that you carry in Tankless Water Heaters We carry Rinnai, Rheem, Eccotemp and more. However, this amount will vary depending on the type of unit you have. All Tankless Water Heaters can be shipped to you at home. If you do buy a new one, keep the paper work and we also mark the month / year we replaced it on the tank now. Generally, a new overflow pipe will cost around 220. In our case the tank was in excess of 10+ years and in my experience, they don't last much longer than 7 (your average GE tank from home depot or lowes) In the last days of ours, water was trickling out of the top where it feeds the house at the connection between the heater and the copper pipe. An air gap eliminates the possibility of backflow from the drain into the discharge piping. If its going to rust, the water will find a way through.Ĭheck the temperature also if its to hot, expansion could be causing the water to get through somewhere which would probably tell me its time to replace it anyways. The moisture from the evaporator coil then collects in the drain pain and is directed into the drain line and out of your home. 1) The discharge pipe cannot be directly connected to the home’s plumbing drainage system, but an air gap located in the same room as the water heater can used to connect to the drainage system. I live in the city where the water is softer and my parents are in the suburbs where its harder. In our experience it doesn't matter the water quality. So what's the right and easy way to do this? I've had very good luck with compression fittings.It could be rusted through the internal piping and water is finding a way out. But, I can't find the 3/4-3/4 male NPT coupling fitting to tie the female flex pipe into the female valve.ģ/4 pipe → 3/4 compression female to NPT male → NPT female to NPT female valve → NPT female valve to NPT male-male coupling → NPT male-male coupling to NPT female flex pipe.Īnd none of these parts are carried by anyone retail store. So, it seems I could go from 3/4 to NPT right away. I assume this is a bad idea? I've ruled this out. What does exist is compression-compression-valves, but in this configuration I'm adding two more compression rings per side of the water heater which is far from ideal. This valve doesn't exist, but such a setup would result in one compression rings per water line. Ideally, there would be a combo-valve that would go from 3/4 compression to thread, and then from a mail thread I could use a flex pipe to go right to the heater. Is there anything wrong with this idea? Moreover, what kind of valves and adapters do I use? I'd like to cut them off, and put on a compression fitting and flex tube to the water heater. From that point there are a series of elbows and a valve I don't trust taking the copper pipe to the water heater. I have 3/4 ID (inner diameter), 7/8 OD (outer diameter) feeding the water heater. What I'd like to do rather than soldier the pipes together is to go from compression to thread. ![]() I'm buying a new water heater, and quite frankly the series of connections and valves are mind boggling.
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